Cannabis is grown in the valleys, on small plateaux or on the steep mountain slopes which are cut into terraces. The lower the altitude, the earlier the sowing and harvest, this ensuring cannabis-farming activity over almost seven months of the year. Female blossoms are mixed with variable proportions of tobacco, the resulting kif being coloured from gold-green through to brown depending upon strength. Usually, the mixture is two parts tobacco to one part cannabis. The pipe used to smoke it consists of two pieces, the sebsis (a wooden stem) and the chqafa, a small clay bowl; water pipes are also common.
Between 1912 and 1956, most of Morocco was a Spanish protectorate. Due to rebel fighting in the Rif Mountains, the Spanish made no effort to control cannabis farming pardy because it was impractical and partly because non-intervention kept the Berbers from supporting the rebels, which many did in any case. After Morocco gained independence in 1956, the government of King Mohammed V permitted limited sales of
kif but, for the most part, attempted to eradicate it. Muslim fundamentalists argued that if kif was to be banned, so too should be alcohol, which was legal despite Morocco being a predominantly Islamic country. The government could not afford to lose the tax revenue from alcohol so it backed down.
Morocco signed the UN Single Convention upon ratification in 1961, which obliged it to take action to suppress cannabis production. Failure to do so meant a reduction or cessation of much-needed foreign aid. The following year, the Moroccan army invaded Berber areas in the Rif Mountains. The Berbers put up a fight and drove the army out. The eradication campaign was cancelled because it was realized abolition was unattainable. Kif smoking was a cultural pursuit, especially amongst the lower classes, and to do away with it would be to deprive the Berbers of their economy. Fiercely independent and often belligerent, the Berbers were an ethnic group, like the opium-poppy-growing Shan State hill tribes of Burma and Thailand or the peasant coca farmers of Colombia, for whom growing narcotics was to develop into an international mercantile activity. Since 1961, also the year in which King Hassan II came to the throne, Morocco has remained a cannabis producer, although the plant can be legally grown only around Ketama; cultivation is prohibited elsewhere.
By the early 1960s, Tangier had been transformed by expatriate Beatniks and prototype hippies. Burroughs was infuriated by them: they had changed the city, in his opinion, into a suburb of Greenwich Village. He left in disgust, returning in 1963 to find the rot even further advanced. The Beats, the renegades, the soldiers of fortune were gone. What was worse, this new breed of expatriate was undermining the long-term expatriates' standing with the authorities and the local people. They had respected Moroccan customs, fitted in with the culture, to an extent 'gone native' and accepted the world in which they were foreign visitors. The newer travellers lacked this respect, behaving little better than blinkered, self-indulgent tourists.
Worse still, they did not just leave their mark upon the city ofTangier. Until the middle of the 1960s, the hashish consumed in Morocco came from the Middle East, local cannabis being used only for kif. The cannabis farmers were largely ignorant of how to make hashish. However, hippies who had been to Mghanistan and were returning home to Europe or the USA showed them how to collect and process the resin. Thereafter, hashish production soared, over-reaching local demand and creating a surplus that could be exported. Through the 1970s, despite government restriction, cannabis farming spread outside the Rif Mountains. The Moroccan authorities publicly stated that the hashish trade was illicit and cannabis was being grown only for manufacture into locally sold kif. Off and on, smalltime dealers were arrested to appease international concern and it was declared the country was trying to enforce a ban, but the reality was different. Hashish exports earned huge amounts of valuable foreign currency.
The Moroccan government turned a blind eye. In fact this was, and remains, common practice in any country where local growers are well established, the local trade sanctioned, the national economy reliant largely upon foreign investment or aid and there is a thriving overseas market not too far away. As, in North America, all that separates Mexican farmer from American user is the Rio Grande river and a fairly permeable desert border, so in Morocco there are only the Straits of Gibraltar between the terraces of the Rif slopes and the coasts of Seville and Granada.